Cuir de Russie is one of the finest perfumes by one of the World's greatest perfume houses, but it is not known to the general public in the way many of its siblings are. In the perfume loving fraternity however, it is revered.
Leather fragrances by their very nature have a heaviness to them, and can be something of an acquired taste. The leather note itself is very deep and forceful, and perfumers have interpreted it in various ways. Raw isobutyl quinoline, from which the leather note is derived, can have a harsh smoky quality which perfumers often feel the need to tame. In this case however, the note isn't dumbed down. Instead, its harsher aspects are counter-balanced by typical Chanel aldehydes, soft florals, and a particularly fine iris. The musky base rounds out the leather note, combining with it to lend great depth and smooth luxury to the composition.
The most remarkable thing about Cuir de Russie is that it manages to give a particularly difficult note such a prominent role without compromising its lineage -it could never be mistaken as the work of any other perfume house. The signature interplay of aldehydes and florals is unmistakable, yet the leather slips so effortlessly into its Chanel suit that one could easily imagine a world where Cuir de Russie was the fragrance that defined the brand.
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